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Lan Ting Chun, the origins of one of the oldest private producer Yunnan
history Lan Ting Chun (兰 庭 春), a leading private producers of Puerh tea is inseparable from that of Mr. Zhai Guo Ting (翟国庭), its founder. Zhai Guo Ting is from a family of farmers Yongde in the Lincang area. In 1983, after his military service, he returned to Yongde decided not to work the land with his family, but to establish his own career. He will begin to work for it as a construction worker, visiting from site to site and different regions in China and will for the first time in Guangzhou. Despite a very modest salary, he will succeed during these three years to put aside what started his project.
- 1.Mr Zhai Guo Ting 2010
- 2.Yunnan over China
- 3.with respect to the Yunnan Lincang
- 4.Yong De relative to Yunnan
In 1986, the Chinese market, hitherto exclusively managed by the state, partially open. At the end of the year, Zhai Guo Ting left work and friends and from first to Kunming, capital of Yunnan, Guangzhou and becomes one of China's trade big place to explore new opportunities promised by the market opening. There will discover the gap between the price of tea in Guangzhou practiced against the local market price of Yongde and return to Yongde, decides to embark on the tea trade.
In 1987, when the economy tea somewhat bat wing and prices are at their lowest, Zhai Guo Ting is on the market Yongde a stock of nearly 8000 kg mao cha just 0.4 RMB () kg. This is the perfect opportunity for him to start his project:he buys the 8000 kg of tea and starts to search for customers. Three months later he sold it to a full stock Yunxian client for 1.5 RMB () per kilogram, making a profit of nearly 9000 RMB () which materialize in his eyes his career plans in tea.
4 years, Zhai Guo Ting and continue to buy and resell mao cha. China is now in a relatively vague and contradictory. Although officially banned, increasingly moving towards private business "under the cloak" (see interview with Chen Sheng He). The tea was officially through distribution channels and state the peasants who had bought 0.5 RMB () could be on the market at 3.5 RMB () Guangzhou, and was a very attractive gain for young entrepreneurs, despite the relative illegality of this trade and the dangers that could represent.
- 1.Zhai Guo ting in a garden Yong De, Lincang
- 2.Small path between the gardens of De Yong, Lincang
- 3.Zhai Guo Ting dripping Maocha and buying a small local peasants
- 4. Zhai Guo Ting dripping Maocha and buying a small local farmers
- 5.Zhai Guo Ting dripping Maocha and buying a small local farmers
asking about the risks, Zhai Guo Ting tells a story about the paradoxes in this period was lequels diving. Once he sent four trucks Yongde tea in Guangzhou, two government intercept the convoy and stop. The first considers that this is an illegal and must stop cars and drivers. The second sector taxes, simply proposes that taxes be paid on the shipment status, as if it was a production status, allowing it to resolve an outstanding issue with the tax factory Yongde National Factory (now disappeared). Zhai Guo Ting from keep good relations with the Director of Yongde Cha Chang. A few years later this is the workshop including Lan Ting Chun Chang Cha Yongde allow to complete its mission and return objectives state ..
In 1991, after four years spent buying and reselling of Maocha Zhai Guo Ting has the opportunity to rent a processing primary leaves in the abandoned village of Manggang (忙 岗村). It invests more than 4000 RMB () to restore the site and equipment, and will produce more than 30 tonnes in 1992, the factory Chun Lan Ting was born.
- 1.verdant landscape Yong De, Lincang
- 2.Landscape with green Yong De, Lincang
- 3.Picking tea trees Yong From
- 4.Course factory Lan Ting Chun, a family atmosphere
Zhai Guo Ting then returned to Guangzhou where he gradually fills her address book clients. In 1993 he concluded his first sale of 150 tons, which will mark its successful entry with Mr. Yao Tian Lai (姚 天 来) tea market in Guangzhou. Zhai Guo Ting there will build not only knowledge of the market, but also his knowledge of tea and a network of farmers and producers that has gradually forged Yong De The following year he made his first Kunming attempt in the puerh (Pu Er tea) with thirty tons of Mao Cha. Unfortunately, the final production 25 tons come at a bad time for the market to Kunming where the demand is not. Faced with impressive price of storage costs, it is forced to sell at a loss 20 tons, which will cost 150,000 RMB (), and returns the remaining 5 tonnes Yongde waiting for better days.
1996 was a turning point for the opening of the private market of tea in China. Confident in the future, Zhai Guo Ting founded his company gradually Yongde from knowledge and market knowledge he has gained 10 years now. In 1999 he bought the necessary equipment to press its own cakes and starts pressing Maocha he accumulated since 1994. Sold in 2000 for only 20 RMB () slab, the price of tea rises quickly swept through the years and these early cakes Lan Ting Chun are now virtually untraceable off the shelves of collectors.
- 1. Pressing the puerh (Pu Er tea) factory Lan Ting Chun today
- 2.Pressing the puerh (Pu Er tea) factory Lan Ting Chun today
Among them, a fermented puerh (Pu Er tea) cake, vintage 1996, which appears in the first cakes marketed by Lan Ting Chun. Although there is a stamp on the packaging referring to the year of production, a rare before 2006 (96 06 28 for the lot that I have), and although the tea which consists of 1996 these dates well wafers were compressed summers in 1999 and are the first to leave presses Lan Ting Chun. This is one of the first batch fermentation Chun Lan Ting and these cakes are now virtually unobtainable. The cake tasted was preserved to this day in the stock staff producer, Yongde, and is therefore the result of a slow maturation in dry condition. 15 years of age this cake, and storage conditions are even more important in light of the type of fermentation the tea leaves and a large place to post fermentation maturation, which he was able to take full advantage .
Chargement du thé...In the same period that the first cakes Lan Ting Chun, I also have an early taste of puerh (Pu Er tea) cakes crude producer, one Tse Chi Cha beeng 1999. Faithful to what was at that time, the cake has no name or reference only and Tse Chi Cha beeng, "Seven Son cakes Yunnan" on the packaging. It contains a raw puerh (Pu Er tea) quality, and has learned a great advantage of 10 years of maturation Yongde in stock staff producer.
Chargement du thé...continue our tasting of raw patties producer, I would like to introduce another Tse Chi Cha beeng raw puerh (Pu Er tea) produced by Lan Ting Chun, but the 2000 vintage. Well that only a year separates the production of these two teas, which have also probably been squeezed the same year, the puerh (Pu Er tea) have distinct characters.
Chargement du thé...
comparatif
Chi Tse Ting Lan Been Cha Chun vs 1999. Tse Chi Been Cha Chun Lan Ting 2000
Observing cakes now, we notice that the leaves of the 2000 vintage are significantly darker than those of 1999, which would seem to indicate slightly faster maturation. But what is most remarkable is the difference in compression leaves. While the cake is from 1999 highly compressed, the 2000 is compressed so much lighter, which actually will give it faster maturation and homogeneous.
Scents that emerge from these two discs are also quite different. The 2000 vintage is as much rounder and warmer than its predecessor. Keys can return to fresh eucalyptus, although present in both teas, and seem less pronounced in 2000 than in cake than the previous year.
The liquor cake 2000, more pure and clear as the 1999 is also much darker leaving once again shows a more advanced maturation. If, taste, both teas are filled with fresh keys typical tea of this age, the year 2000 appears to be more soft, round and warm in there mouth or its predecessor is more discreet and clear. At first tea of 2000 and seems richer world, with a presence may be easier. In contrast its predecessor, although less flashy lights can be a more focused character, an impression increased more finesse and purity.
On the same basis and characters that resemble these two teas, however, appear as distinct, speaking respectively in the clear and bright cake for 1999 and something eminently more dark and heavy for the vintage 2000.
Another pancake raw puerh (Pu Er tea) particularly interesting Lan Ting Chun produced by the same year, a cake named Lao Sheng Cha, which marks somehow making independence and assertiveness Lan Ting Chun face major domestic producers.
Chargement du thé...Zhai Guo Ting But do not just spend Maocha the cake. On the other side of the chain Lan Ting Chun invests in the field, the project not only work fresh leaves farmers but to produce its own tea from the tree, in particular to increase the control and product quality. He rents nearly 70 hectares of land in the mountains Mingfeng (鸣凤 山) that nobody cared at that time and planted between 2000 and 2001 more than 40 acres of gardens green.
- 1. Montagnes green Yong From
- 2.Fragment of tea garden Lan Ting Chun
- 3.Grand tea trees in the garden of Lan Ting Chen
- 4.Zhai Guo Ting in her garden green of Mingfeng
Zhai Guo Ting is not only a kind of consecration, but the first step of his dream come true:it now has its own tea garden, own factory, stable network of clients and sales network far beyond Kunming and Guangzhou and now extends to Taiwan and Japan through Burma, Beijing and Hong Kong. Lan Ting Chun but not only that and the beginning of this century when the new producers puerh (Pu Er tea) emerge like mushrooms, the goal is to expand. To do this, four main areas, which are increasing production, progressive enlargement of the organic garden Mingfeng, advanced production techniques and fermentation, and promoting the development of tea from this region.
These objectives, which Zhai Guo Ting invests all his energy and a large part of the profits of his business, to take part as economic crash of 2008. Including the organic garden, which is found labelized BIO, from 40 hectares to over 100 hectares, while plant and equipment are repeatedly rehabilitated to always improve the quality of tea and able to respond to a request for up to 1000 tons. Lan Ting Chun received in return many awards for the quality of its products and the man, who from the beginning is behind Zhai Guo Ting, is increasingly recognized as a leading expert in the fermentation of puerh. This particular form of many other producers in the region who still come to him for advice on the quality of their products.
These years were probably the best time to Lan Ting Ting Guo and Zhai Chun, taking advantage of the incredible growth of the demand and prices of puerh (Pu Er tea) the beginning of the century to develop large-scale project and realize his dreams ... drama until the end of 2007.
Lan Ting Chun, a producer at the heart of the cataclysm of 2008
violent fall in the puerh (Pu Er tea) at the end of 2007, which closed nearly 5 years of soaring prices marked indeed seriously Yunnan. It was a tragedy for Lan Ting Chun as for many producers and puerh (Pu Er tea) factories, especially those of medium size that were most affected and where it often ended in the bankruptcy and closure.
Seeing their income tenfold between 2003 and 2007, many producers of medium and small plants have indeed followed this trend by continually reinvesting their new income:This is a time for the full extension of the puerh (Pu Er tea) world where everywhere you built and expanded factories, we borrow, we buy land, we acquire new equipment, we store the mao cha, we invest in order to multiply its production capacity and to follow the market racing.
End of 2007 the speculative bubble that explodes into this enormous growth, the demand for young tea suddenly becomes almost non-existent and prices fall dramatically puerh (Pu Er tea) bringing with them many producers and factories. For farmers and small producers that was the end of the Roaring Twenties, where incomes could double from one year to another, however, leaving them in a very comfortable, the price, although much lower than in 2007, while remaining still very high (generally beyond even those of 2006!). The situation was even more dramatic by cons for larger producers who find themselves in 2008, often in debt by their recent investments in hand with brand new plants to become excessive production capacity with demand, and especially huge stocks tea not worth anything and that nobody wants.
This is precisely the nightmare scenario has lived Lan Ting Chun. With the rise of the great demand, the plant was modernized on several occasions between 2003 and 2007, the profits are reinvested immediately, stocks of raw material and the production of Lan Ting Chun magnified up to 700 tons per year in 2006. Olympics on the horizon still encourage market confidence, encouraging farmers to produce beyond the demand to increase the value of their stocks dramatically from what appeared to be a wise investment.
To Zhai Guo Ting, who runs a successful single boat Lan Ting Chun for 20 years is the collapse. Where the day was still filled with success and confidence, it is the bankruptcy and closure suddenly on the horizon. Determined not to stop there, Zhai Guo Ting, despite 1200000 RMB () he loses in 2008, sells to its faster stock for a pittance, but four cars and his house in order to save the best costs.
Proven Zhai Guo Ting has not given up and has saved his company and factory, there will be much left of himself. In 2007, back in Kunming where he went to fetch a price for his tea, he fell ill, and gradually into a dark feeling that the allowance has been working ever. Since then, the plant continues to operate as it has always done in slow motion, still producing 400 tons of tea last year, including 350 puerh. Although this remains an annual production quite honorable and teas out of the factory in recent years are very high quality, optimism and the atmosphere prevailing there took a serious blow. Far dreams of expansion, development and glorious future, especially now we're working to pay off past debts gradually.
The shop Lan Ting Chun, who used to Yong De showcase the brand seems more symbolic than anything else and is partially converted into a tea room. Across the yellowed paint, posters peeling, the étagèrent is covered with dust. In this atmosphere of abandonment and resignation only one thing has not changed:the tea that always dazzles its richness and quality.
Lan Ting Chun today excellence unknown
Zhai Guo Ting If, at 55, is well recognized as a leading expert puerh (Pu Er tea) including fermentation, an area in which he excels, and although he received many awards and appears in various reference books on puerh, Lan Ting Chun is now a largely unknown brand on the market. Since the fall of 2008, Zhai Guo Ting has abandoned any real communication to focus on the essentials, tea, and is mainly based on its existing customer network to distribute its products. Away from the big time when you could get burgers Lan Ting Chun upmarket boutiques in Taiwan, Hong Kong and even Japan, this tea is now almost impossible to find on the market. Yet they reveal a rich and remarkable quality.
- 1. Zhai Guo Ting facing crisis after puerh
- 2.Some teas famous Lan Ting Chun
- 4.Some teas famous Lan Ting Chun
- 5.Tasting tea at Lan Ting Chun
Lan Ting Chun, whose factory employs 25 people plus a hundred people for harvesting tea, has produced in the past year, nearly 400 tons of tea, 350 tons of puerh (Pu Er tea) and thirty tons of black tea. Among them and few side products Lan Ting Chun catalog, is more than twenty different cakes, mostly produced for private orders. What differs between these patties in the same region produced by the same producer?
In terms of fermentation, cakes Lan Ting Chun play the full range of characters that can bring about a controlled fermentation and associate themselves with success various grades and intensities of fermentation. For raw puerh, there are various assemblies for the various characters from different gardens of the region's own garden or Lan Ting Chun Maocha from various small producers with Lan Ting Chun who has long worked.
This is for example the case of a large reference catalog Lan Ting Chun, a slab of raw puerh (Pu Er tea) early spring crops mountain Ming Feng, whose Maocha each year is selected and assembled by Zhai Guo Ting and whose Here are the returns from 2010 vintage.
Chargement du thé...If as shown in this cake, teas sourced and assembled by Lan Ting Chun can be of high quality, the most prestigious products are probably those from own tea garden Zhai Guo Ting ecological.
An exceptional garden
Among the different teas produced by Lan Ting Chun, the most interesting are undoubtedly those from own trees this producer. Lan Ting Chun, as we have seen, began buying land in the hills of Mingfeng and plant a new ecological tea garden from 1999. Initially a little less than 66 hectares, 40 of which have been planted by Lan Ting Chun, this garden stretches over a hundred hectares. It is for the greater part of what is called an ecological garden, ie where the trees are planted, in the manner of ancient tea gardens, in order to respect the nature and environment in which they thrive. Trees are more widely spaced and less particular cut in terraced fields (tai di).
- 1. Fragment of tea garden Lan Ting Chun
- 2.Fragment of tea garden Lan Ting Chun
- 3.Auto coolants in the mountains
- 4.Trees and tea high biodiversity
- 5.Trees Tea in the garden Lan Ting Chun
tea trees Zhai Guo Ting, thick and strong and grow in between the mist and a variety of other plants, including trees very present in the mountain Mingfeng where the climate is much cooler and drier than found for example in Xishuangbanna. Although by far the densest sections can think of tai di, just get close and roam among the trees to notice the difference:leafy trees and low cut, obviously harvested sparingly, a ground left to itself without the slightest trace of weeding, vegetation surrounding diverse and prosperous.
By traveling between tea, fir, and many other trees that grow in the garden of Chun Lan Ting is among the most beautiful area where grow 3.3 acres of mature trees and a beautiful unusual density.
- 1. Great tea in the garden of Lan Ting Chun
- 2.Great tea in the garden of Lan Ting Chun
- 4.From Guo Ting before a its big trees
few meters high they take on the appearance of giant bushes of bright green and truly collapsing under the leaves. Observing them from afar can indulge see huge green mushrooms and spongy chair would suddenly sprung from the ground. Approaching the more one is progressively dominated by the size of these trees, which gradually fill the entire field of vision and promise seem to engulf one who will draw more. Their density is such that we must contort to cross the green shell of one of these trees, disappearing into his den, and reach in the darkness that prevails crooked trunk which escapes a dense network of branches .
Tea from the gardens of Lan Ting Chun is the height of the beauty of the trees that grow there. Including one of the most prestigious cake that Lan Ting Chun produced each year, named Pu Erh Feng Ming Biological 鸣凤 山 有机茶 (tea is labeled BIO), which I tasted for you vintages 2007 and 2010.
Chargement du thé... Chargement du thé...
comparatif
Lan Ting Chun Organic vs 2007. Yongde Zi Yu Ming Feng Sheng 2006
The appearance of the cakes is close, either at the appearance of leaves or compression. The surface of the wafer produced by Zi Yu appears, however, slightly darker than the cake Lan Ting Chun. This latter effect is obviously composed of younger leaves (smaller) and there is a greater proportion of buds.
Liqueurs two teas are completely similar, both in terms of their color or purity. Perfumes, after moistening, are also very very close though that the wafer produced Lan Ting Chun has something more intense and profound.
The situation is much the same in the first infusions tastes very similar, almost identical, but with notes that seem a bit more round and soft on the cake of Lan Ting Chun.
This is best confirmed and amplified with the following infusions. If the taste, these two look almost identical teas, tea liquor Lan Ting Chun something softer, smooth and soft in the mouth. This is not so much the taste that it's happening, but the way in which the liquor slides over the tongue and palate in its consistency. As well as a tea can produce different depending on the tea liquor with which it is brewed, this cake Lan Ting Chun caress tongue and palate well-rounded, or where its counterpart produced by Zi Yu is more brittle, dry.
Mainly present in the form of liquor, it is affirmed with infusions of taste. As in the aroma grows the cake Lan Ting Chun appears more round, silky and smooth than its competitor.
These nuances, however, are particularly subtle, and if they are highlighted here by a comparative tasting in parallel, these teas are very close, and confuses the untrained palate without a doubt.
If Lan Ting Chun has pressed a 2011 edition of this cake, perfectly faithful to previous vintages this wonderful production it is unfortunately stopped in 2012. Costs of certification BIO garden include too high, or it was the specificity of this cake in productions Lan Ting Chun and producer sees more interest in this situation regardless press this garden, which find therefore assembled with other garden in his new album Ming Feng 2012 as follows.
Chargement du thé...Zhaiguoting this year has also added a new tea catalog, Da Xue Shan Lao Shu. This tea is not from the garden of manufacturer, or even but Min Feng Da Xue Shan, the land of the wild tea cakes Lan Ting Chun, but this time more conventional trees and nearest gustatorily young puerh (Pu Er tea) raw. It promises to be one of the best teas from this producer in 2012, if not the best ..
Chargement du thé...perfect control of the fermentation
addition puerh (Pu Er tea) crude produced from its own tea or Maocha from different terroirs Yongde, a specialty of the Lan Ting Chun and which is largely based on its recognition is fermented puerh. Fermentation puerh (Pu Er tea) is particularly the main activity of the plant Lan Ting Chun throughout the fall. With over 10 years experience in the field, Zhai Guo Ting is considered an expert in the field and many producers have Lincang summers trained alongside him or benefited from his advice.
- 1. Fermentation puerh (Pu Er tea) factory Lan Ting Chun
- 2.Fermentation of puerh (Pu Er tea) factory Lan Ting Chun
- 4.Sample freshly fermented plant Lan Ting Chun
past ten years Zhai Guo Ting has experienced so many of the techniques of fermentation, not only to produce good puerh (Pu Er tea) fermented according to the standards of the field, but also the art of exploiting the potential of fermentation artificial puerh (Pu Er tea) to sculpt the character leaves and bring out new flavors.
- 1. Details fermentation (noble mold)
- 2.Details of fermentation (noble mold)
Zhai Guo Ting is particularly adept fermentation light, as they did in the past. He said the best time during which the leaves must remain in the stack to ferment between 18 and 20 days where many farmers grow fermentation between 30 and 45 days. Such fermentations produce light when they are controlled and finest teas, leaving room for further maturation, promoting capacity enhancement of these teas.
Similarly, although Chun Lan Ting produce a number of grades for (gong ting, pure buds, etc.), Zhai Guo Ting privilege generally for fermentation, a variety of high grades, which may include the addition buds, following five sheets. Past, staying longer on the tree, lose some of their bitterness and allow the emergence of better taste back.
Catalog Lan Ting Chun and contains a variety of fermented puerh (Pu Er tea) very unique and the characters in which are real pearls. I have selected for you some examples of these teas particularly significant, starting with a pancake on behalf of cha xiang yu shui, which is one of the largest reference Lan Ting Chun term fermented puerh.
Chargement du thé...
comparatif
LanTingChun ChiTseBeengCha 96 vs. LanTingChun ChiShuiYuChaXiang 2010
A smell already the difference of these two discs is clearly evident. The 1996 vintage is much more sober, dull, dusty, and what emerges from the 2010 perfumes much more fruity and light.
Continues and intensifies the taste largely the trend. The wafer 2010 is more intense, richer and more complex, and loses the same time a certain sobriety and subtlety that makes the value and charm of his ancestor. Without falling either into the vulgar, far from the fermentation of 2010 tape over the eye, is more original, eccentric charm by its propensity to spread in all directions there or played on the 1996 vintage simplicity , minimalism while deeply.
This cake reminds vision of 1996 increased from the fermentation of puerh, tea time or older and wet storage of Hong Kong were still references here or 2010 production of Lan Ting Chun clearly more creative use of the fermentation of puerh, explores that this control technique and its potential to carve in the tea leaf aromas new.
In this sense we could say that the 1996 vintage still looks to Hong Kong and Guangzhou, while the 2010 that is deeply rooted in Yunnan.
the issue of large character differences between vintages produced by fermented Lan Ting Chun during the last 15 years Zhai Guo Ting meets a very natural way:Far from advancing a change in approach, a different position compared the history of fermented puerh (Pu Er tea) or market Zhai Guo Ting evokes a very personal approach to fermentation. Since its inception, what has motivated and directed it is above all his personal tastes, which he believes, on which he bases his own judgment. So he always practiced fermentation according to his tastes, his desires, his vision of the moment ... and if the nature of its products has changed in 10 years, it is to him that his own tastes have changed.
We note characters and distinct in its productions every few years, but there are also within the production of the same year, each produced by puerh (Pu Er tea) Lan Ting Chun generally having a unique character.
Another particularly interesting cake and that illustrates this is a gong ting (宫廷 普洱) produced as the previous cake (When water and tea meet) in 2010. It differs greatly from the other fermented cake of 2010, its first full recipe composed of fine grade (buds, leaves), but also and especially by its unique and radically different from other productions Lan Ting Chun same year.
Chargement du thé...
Two years later in 2012, with a new product Zhaiguoting two fermentations particularly interesting, high quality and know how to distinguish previous wafers.
Although not listed on the packaging of cakes, the leaves are composed not from Yong De, and even Yunnan, but Burma. In the region where Yong is based Zhaiguoting is indeed only a few kilometers from the Burmese border, and although it is not necessarily entirely legal, it is relatively easy to import leaves Burma, which is reminiscent of the early Zhaiguoting in the tea trade.
These sheets were then fermented in its factory Zhaiguoting Yong From then assembled to produce fermented teas to two radically different characters. The first named Da Hong Yin, large red mark, is very classic. In the manner of fermented puerh (Pu Er tea) 80s or early 90s, he returned to the first fermented teas and plays Zhaiguoting incredible way with aromas of old puerh.
Chargement du thé...The second Raw 2012 is fermented named Gu Shu Cha Wang, king of the big trees. Unlike the previous tea, which could remember the past are fermented puerh (Pu Er tea) is in something very contemporary, very pure and bright.
Chargement du thé...
comparatif
Da Hong Yin vs 2012. Gu Shu Cha Wang 2012
The scent that emerges appears as dry leaves much deeper for Da Hong Yin Gu Shu as the Cha Wang. Liquor is against the latter much more dark and red.
Once infused fragrance produced by the leaves of these two cakes looks radically different. The Da Hong Yin is powdery, woody, reminiscent of the structure of an old attic, plays aromas of old cha shu. Besides that the Gu Shu Cha Wang appears much more focused, round, bright and silky.
These two characters find themselves perfectly to the taste, with a Da Hong Yin and plays more vaporous scents like smoke, Gu Shu Cha and more fruity and Wang folded mouth.
Somehow found through these two teas two "schools" in front of the fermentation, with a very old Yin Da Hong scool who plays the satin side and peppery old teas, Gu Shu Cha and Wang decidedly more contemporary released references to Hong Kongers storage and asserts a new approach to fermentation.
common specialties can
Finally, in addition to the classics that we have flown, assemblies and raw fermented where Lan Ting Chun excels and innovates, the producer also has some less common products, and which are very good surprises. Among them tea made from real trees wild Daxueshan (of Yongde), or a pure fermented bud house altogether surprising.
- 1. Buds real wild trees Yong From
- 2.Buds real wild trees Yong From
- 3.Galette pure fermented buds Lan Ting Chun
- 4.Comparison of two buds fermented pancake Lan Ting Chun
Although "wild tree" is a name that can be found on a number of puerh, it is in almost all cases abusive and tea from wild trees is rarer than the sellers are willing have us believe. However, there are many trees in Yunnan Tea said Indians, that is not planted by man. Often millennia, these trees usually grow in the middle of forests in mountainous areas quite remote and difficult to access. Rooted cuttings since ancient times by local minorities, they gave birth to different tea gardens planted by man, some dating back almost 1000 years and from which it manufactures tea puerh.
The real wild trees for their part are little exploited, for different reasons. Often lost amidst forests accessibility is difficult, sometimes even dangerous. Added to this is the significant size of these trees and form not conducive to the climb, therefore making the perilous harvesting. In addition, with certain abuses, including the cutting of trees for millennia stripped of their leaves, the harvest of wild trees, often located in nature reserves is partially prohibited. Finally, the aroma of such sheets is special. If we can find him a wealth away from it that the standards have posed as puerh (Pu Er tea) quality criteria and to which the old plantation trees respond better. Demand for tea tree wild is therefore not large enough to justify the complexity of its production.
Behind what is sold as wild tree is then in the best case, planting trees sometimes old multi centenarians, or otherwise teas intensive cultivation without any relation with wild tea beyond the registered name on the package. There is a number of wild trees Yongde, located in the forest of Dashueshan whose summit is at 3500m. To get there you must go to Wumu Long (乌木 龙), then take the mountain road to the end. Then sinks a little way in the forest, he must take on a certain number of miles before meeting the deans of Yunnan tea. After he went there several times, Zhai Guo Ting and began to squeeze limited production of this rare tea, which reads the 2010 vintage.
Chargement du thé...
comparatif
Wild Trees Lan Ting Chun vs 2010. Wild trees Shuangjiang Mengku 2010
If these two discs are from the same region, Lincang, and are reported as coming from the mountain Da Shue (大雪山), however it is not the same mountain. The cake comes Shuangjiang Mengku effect of Da Shue Shan Mengku, while that produced by the Lan Ting Chun comes from Da Shue Shan Yongde in a neighboring district.
The surface of these wafers has very beautiful backlashes leaves. In there with his nose, the cake produced by Lan Ting Chun lets out a more intense fragrance, round, fruity and deep, where the cake Mengku generates only little odor. To the eye immediately notice major differences. The cake Yongde (Lan Ting Chun) appears in fact as much more colorful than his sister Mengku:We notice including a large proportion of yellow buds, typical of some wild tea, where the cake Mengku appears duller, green and united.
A brewing liqueurs are very close. Both are very clean and bright, the Lan Ting Chun has however a very slight haze against its competitor.
The scent of these cakes perfectly illustrates their visual aspects. The tea produced by Lan Ting Chun is more colorful, flowery, bright and clear, where the scent of tea Mengku are deaf, spicy and silky. Taste, though both teas are clearly in the same range, we find that presaged the smell of tea with Lan Ting Chun says that light and fruity, with hints of citrus clear that while the of Mengku appears as deep and sober with much heavier flavors and spices.
As the infusions, the mouthfeel tends to get closer and reveals a common basis for these two teas. In the aftertaste persists, however, the characters of each, fruity lemon for tea Lan Ting Chun, spicy and peppery for tea Shuangliang Mengku. Note also hui gan tea Lan Ting Chun much more intense and persistent, and the cake Mengku a character approaching more than you might expect from a good puerh (Pu Er tea) tree plantations old .
But also its aromas, wild tea tea also has a special ability to evolve with time. It ages not only faster than conventional puerh, but also in any other way, developing characters over time quite unique and typical of these teas.
Let us illustrate this for a pancake rare and is particularly interesting because the 2004 vintage of wild tea Da Xue we just enjoy the 2010 edition. In addition, this tea was stored more than 5 years in Yong De, particularly in wet storage, which helped increase its maturation. It is against stored more dry for less than one year (2012), and still has a certain brand of moisture, it will still probably a few years to lose completely.
Chargement du thé...
comparatif
Ye Sheng Cha vs 2004. Ye Sheng Cha 2010
The leaves are quite similar when their forms. We note, however, staining of bud tea 2004 turns to red.
The liqueur is produced against radically different, with a golden yellow for the year 2010, where 2004 is expressed through a deep copper.
The scent that emerges is particularly interesting, with a 2010 very lemony, fresh, bright, or the 2004 vintage there is much more bitter, thick and dull. However, there are many carpet in the background of the 2004 dimension that characterizes lemon tea in 2010.
The taste is in the direct line of this fragrance leaves foretold:The 2010 vintage very fresh, lemony and bright, facing 2004 more deaf, thick and clearly marked by maturation. It includes suspicions lemony but in the background, coming somehow raise the overall character of the tea.
At first or if there not wear too much attention to it might seem radically different teas their characters seem so distant. , Bringing to more attention, or when tasting the same time, there are many in the 2004 vintage, behind the flavors of teas mature, the character based on 2010 and especially citrus touches, become discreet but noticeable .
These keys citrus appear as though radically transformed. Muted, rounded, swollen by the time they seem to have almost completely lost their sharp and bright side to become something else.
Another interesting dimension of these teas is the balance between the body of the tea taste and character. The 2010 has little body and character of this tea is mostly worn by the lemony freshness typical young wild puerh, especially when they have lots of buds. One could almost make the same observation of the 2004 vintage, again with a body rather discreet on which predominates this time either but lemony freshness fresh aromas of maturation.
While remaining in the wild tea, I would like to introduce a cake unique. This is a special edition of the cake Wild Lan Ting Chun Zhaiguoting produced in 2012 at my request and in limited edition.
The packaging is the same as the regular series of other years with the exception of a small buffer on the face Puerh Asia to distinguish this special series. But the real difference lies in the composition of the wafer. While that of the outer surface is composed of leaves and buds Da Xue Shan wild harvested in the spring of 2012, the heart of the plate is made of wild leaves the same soil but a 2006 harvest, stored so 6 years as Maocha to De Yong
The result is particularly interesting. Buds and young leaves of 2012 indeed provide keys citrus and fresh lemon dimension typical young wild tea while the leaves mature gives more body, depth and thickness tea. In addition, and this is particularly interesting, this cake leaves a lot of freedom to infusion and allows attacking one way or another slab, and thus varying the proportions of older leaves more or less to really play on the rendering of tea. Tasting:
Chargement du thé... Also in the category of surprises concealed by the producer, but in the field of fermented puerh (Pu Er tea) this time I would like to introduce tea buds exclusively composed of finely fermented. Considered a higher grade, noble, puerh (Pu Er tea) composed exclusively of buds is something rare and expensive. The buds are usually accompanied by picking one or more often two, three or four leaves. Usually separated during fermentation, the finest grades are then most often used with other grades within assemblages, or more rarely in cakes consist exclusively of fine grades (like cake gong ting seen above ) or in bulk (see article "bud puerh (Pu Er tea) YiWu, Spring 1986"). Whatever the case, the fermentation of buds is generally treated the same as the other sheets.
There or approaching Lan Ting Chun is unique, it is in the creation of a particular tea, not only composed exclusively of buds, but whose work leaves and fermentation were designed specifically for this summer. The thin sheets used are not initially worked as an ordinary puerh, but more like a white tea without Rou Cha in order to maintain the integrity of the bud. They are then lightly fermented in a stack composed entirely of buds, producing a single result.
Chargement du thé...buds fermented Lan Ting Chun were in 2010, Summers products in two series. Besides the first compressed form of cake and we have just seen, was produced a series uncompressed, then sold in bulk by the kilogram. This latest version is more obvious in the fluffiness and tender buds and taste its intensity exceeds even the compressed version.
Chargement du thé...There's still a lot of teas was present, so that producers shelves contain pearls, accumulated over 15 years. All however, are not up to the ones I've presented in this article, but it is not a true comparison test I have chosen to speak of the most relevant.
Hulankun, the hidden face of Lan Ting Chun
A story worthy of a television series
The puerh (Pu Er tea) is a complex and labyrinthine, sometimes obscure, in which the search for truth often resembles a cross to bear. The information on the packaging of cakes are almost always wrong, especially on soils of origin or the nature of the trees, those sellers' argument (which generally do not have or do not even give the means to verify this they say) is worse and it therefore requires systematically trace the source to get some reliable information.
But again be aware that unless established with years of real trust with producers, they say that at first is often not reliable, and often approach the legend that something else. In such a context, seeking to understand the truth of what is really behind the cakes we drink is tedious and requires a lot of time and attention.
So I noticed in recent years some strange inconsistencies in the products of Lan Ting Chun. Among them some pancakes crossed in both shops "official" Lan Ting Chun in Kunming and in particular that of the old market professional puerh (Pu Er tea) held by the son of Zhaiguoting, cakes that I had surprisingly never crossed factory Lan Ting Chang Cha I work with for years yet, which I had never Zhaiguoting does not prevent me when he spoke at the exit of almost every new production ...
Other small details of packages sold cakes Lan Ting Chun Yong on the one hand and on the other hand From Kunming to left also think of counterfeits. This and a few inconsistencies between the statements from the son of Zhaiguoting in Kunming, and secondly those of his father and Yong De pushed me to look deeply behind this story ... ultimately worthy of a true soap opera!
- 1. Zhaiguoting
- 2. Hulankun, the ex-wife of Zhaiguoting
- 3.New woman Zhaiguiting 2010
- 4.Logo Lan Chun Tin
- 5. Neifei on a wafer Lan Chun Tin
It is a character is missing from the story of Lan Ting Chun as I presented above. It is Hulankun, who was the wife of Zhaiguoting for nearly 20 years and has managed his side including the company Yong De, whose family is also in the tea Yong In life and now Kunming with his son. Behind the brand Lan Chun Ting filed by Zhaiguoting found elsewhere not only 庭 (Ting) Zhai Guo ting, but also 兰 (Lan) Hu Kun lan, and this name reflected somehow this pair of producers. ..
I will not go into the gory details and personal reasons for the separation and Hulankun Zhaiguoting, and the point of view of everyone, otherwise we really sombrerions in the soap opera, but there is always that they are separated shortly after the fall of puerh (Pu Er tea) market, and indebtedness of the plant. As in many separations the case was complex and contentious. If the old woman Zhaiguoting demanded not only 50% of the company and the brand, but also the heavy debts that accompanied it, Zhaiguoting, legal owner of the company and the preferred maque retain only the entire the company, leaving one to assume the debts that it was related.
Not satisfied with this situation Hulankun continues to claim, at least morally half of the Lan Ting Chun brand which appears in his own name ... years and continues to produce a son with cakes labeled Lan Ting Chun, not from absolutely no Lan Ting Tea Factory, but more often Cha De Hu Chang Yong From plant belonged to his brother. And a number of cake sold as Lan Ting Chun on the market come from this plant family Hulankun and not of Lan Ting Chang Cha as one could weigh and package them as stated.
In addition, if Zhaiguoting is based in Yong De, especially remote rural area of Lincang where not many people will not venture, with a factory to manage and few opportunities to leave the area, Hulankun and her children are now based in Kunming, capital of Yunnan and large trading center puerh (Pu Er tea) tea, and have different markets professionals tea shops "official" representative Lan Ting Chun ... which of course essentially not sell teas Zhaiguoting but those produced by Hulankun and his brother, which gives them a privileged position in the market.
- 1. Tea products Hulankun De Cha Hu Chang 2012
- 2.Tea products Hulankun De Hu Cha Chang (top) and Lan Ting Zhaiguoting to Cha Chang (bottom)
- 3.Logos Lan Ting Chun wafers produced by Hulankun and Zhaiguoting
- 4.Example of cake produced by Zhaiguoting (left) and Hulankun (right)
Some of these cookies, therefore produced by the family of Hulankun known as Lan Ting Chun and resume precisely the same packaging as patties produced at the same time by Zhaiguoting. So these are copies presques compliant, notably including the logo, but also references the factory Lan Ting Chang Cha and legal information relating thereto, and thus constitute genuine fakes, the sale is theoretically banned in China.
For some time Hulankun products as its own references, based on assemblies and revenue of its own. These cakes, and have their own names and packaging and do not exist in the catalog Zhaiguoting. If the names and packaging design differ, however, these teas are sold under the brand Chun Lan Ting they display the logo, and resume still very strong aesthetic products Lan Ting Chun. Nei Piao them more consistently indicates that tea comes from Lan Ting Tea Factory (although they are produced by De Hu Chang Cha), and packages cover the various legal information on plant Zhaiguoting, including how completely illegal references its QS label that identifies the factory warranty and it is well Chinese standards.
- 1. indicates Nei Fei Lan Ting Tea Factory in a cake produced by De Hu Tea Factory
- 2. falsified information on a wafer produced by Chun Lan Ting Hu Cha Chang From
- 3.Details of cakes Lan Ting Chun produced by Hulankun and Zhaiguoting
- 4.References QS Lan Ting Tea Factory used on a wafer produced by De Hu Tea Factory
The story could have ended in course justice, if we had not been to China, and if it does not mingled complex family histories, not only between Zhaiguoting and his ex-wife but also his children involved in the sale of various products Lan Ting Chun. If so Zhaiguoting do not see much of a good eye that his ex-wife Kunming produces and sells teas known as Lan Ting Chun, and resumed his account design and the reputation of its products, the situation and thus it takes a certain fatalism.
- 1. Min Feng Teas 2012 Release Zhaiguoting (left) and Hulankun (right)
- 2.First spring harvest Version Zhaiguoting (left) and Hulankun (right)
- 3.Nei Piao cakes and Zhaiguoting Hulankun
- 4.Lan Ting Chun versus Zhaiguoting and Hulankun
But some more via exchanges persist between children Zhaiguoting one hand the clan Hulankun in Kunming, and Yong De Zhaiguoting to what makes things even more complicated. For example, when Hulankun begins, not to copy the old production but produce, still under the name Lan Ting Chun own teas Mang Fei, Zhaiguoting think first of all that can come out a quality product. Finally impressed by the quality of the tea, he asked his son strangely to send him a stock Yong De, and therefore will meet these teas sold by Zhaiguoting himself next to his own productions. In contrast Zhaiguoting ask his son to sell Shue Cha Yu Xiang, one of its flagship tea on the market in Kunming, and cakes are thus now on the shelves of the store of his ex-wife. ..
How to recognize genuine teas produced by Zhaiguoting, and those produced by Hulankun and son
It is not easy to recognize these cakes so those Hulankun are inspired by the original design of Zhaiguoting, unless you know in each case the origin of each pancake. One finds these cakes the same logo, the same references, the same Nei Piao, but many graphic details, such as friezes or some pictures used as visual patties on ...
I would approach the question not of old productions, which could make a separate article, and I am content production in 2012, easier to differentiate without having to know the history of each wafer.
- 1. papers used by Cha Lan Ting Chang (top) and De Hu Cha Chang (bottom) in 2012
- 2.Paper used by Lan Ting Chang Cha 2012
- 3.Paper used by De Hu Chang Cha in 2012
- 4.Paper used by Lan Ting Chang Cha 2012
The paper used by the two producers for their recent productions (excluding sold under private control other brands) indeed differ significantly. Although both have all used different papers for their teas in 2012, those are always Hulankun white papers here or Zhaiguoting are more yellow. In addition, the paper used by Zhaiguoting contains large yellow orange colored fibers which are distributed here and there on its surface. Sometimes found fibers similar in some teas Hulankun as its Ming Qian 2012, but these fibers are white and shiny, or those where packaging Zhaiguoting are always yellow-orange and matt.
Similarly flops products by Lan Ting Chang Cha are generally closed with wire, where those from Chang Fu Cha natural son are closed.
Lan Ting Chun vs Zhaiguoting. Lan Ting Chun Hulankun
While thinking of these teas Lan Ting Chun Hu products From Cha Chang by (for) Hulankun?
I'm not an advocate of Zhaiguoting or Hulankun, and may very well understand why one or the other to use the logo brand Lan Ting Chun, after more than 20 years of working together around this brand. I criticize however widely in teas produced by Hulankun, it is not they use their account maque Lan Ting Chun, but they pose for production of Lan Ting Factory (while come from a different plant), making it real fake, both legally and morally.
Worse than the lack of traceability, and we are facing forged traceability. Not only do we know nothing of the plant that actually produces these cakes, but they are not sold as factory produced Zhaiguoting. Beyond the factory is also different labels that accompany these cakes are falsified, including QS label which guarantees that the plant is standard, but also the Green Food label or label BIO (COFCC), which concern respectively the plant and garden Zhaiguoting. Face it would have been more honest, correct and respectful of consumer selling these teas under the brand Lan Ting Chun is, but from De Cha Chang Hu, accompanied legal information concerning this plant.
That being said, once informed of the origin of these cakes, and if you buy them knowingly, it there's good very good things in the recent productions of Hulankun, some of which are worth visiting and which here few examples exist when compared with similar products Zhaiguoting.
- 1.Very good teas produced by De Cha Hu Chang Hulankun
- 3.Very good teas produced by De Cha Hu Chang Hulankun
- 4.Very good teas produced by De Cha Hu Chang Hulankun
Start with a cake of the first crop in early spring 2012, if it fails to match the version produced by Zhaiguoting is a really good tea.
Chargement du thé...
comparatif
Ming Qian Lan Ting Chang Cha vs 2012. From Hu Ming Qian Cha Chang 2012
Hulankun tea also seems a little more green, overall there or cake Zhaiguoting look slightly yellow. It also seems less compressed, leaves stain more easily and therefore appear more beautiful once bulk discounts.
Liqueurs are quite close and clear, slightly darker and a little less bright, however Zhaiguoting for tea.
The nose is in the same tone, with the release of Zhaiguoting may be slightly wider and more intense, or there Hulankun version seems more profound and subtle.
That presaged perfumes can clearly be found at the first sip:tea Zhaiguoting appears much more intense, broad and generous, with a good presence on the palate as in the throat or nasal cavity. Besides that tea Hulankun, more discreet play more finesse and depth.
Face to face, tea Hulankun seems very light, bland, diluted, or tea there Zhaiguoting speaks with remarkable breadth and richness. Be forgotten that without this light, the tea produced by Hulankun, tasted individually, does have a certain purity, depth and precision that tea remarkable Zhaiguoting does not.
It is clearly two interpretations of early spring crops:tea Hulankun plays a kind of purity, and highlights the subtlety and finesse even graze the insipid, while the tea is produced in Zhaiguoting depth, richness and abundance aromatic. In a parallel tasting tea Hulankun finds himself totally crushed, and has no chance to speak. Independently against, although his lack of body and presence is lacking, it can still be affected by its charm and delight its finesse.
Move to another production Hulankun 2012, which takes a classic catalog Lan Ting Chun tea mountain Min Feng.
Chargement du thé...
comparatif
Min Feng Lan Ting Chang Cha vs 2012. Min Hu Feng De Cha Chang 2012
A smell cake however Hulankun appears harsher, deeper, satin or there Zhaiguoting version is slightly rounder and discreet.
The liquors are both very close, with tea Hulankun a little darker and colorful. We recover the scent that emanates the same character.
We are dealing with something similar to the palace flavors very close, and a resolutely together. Tea Zhaiguoting appears still more round than there or Hulankun expressed more mate, male and slightly more intense.
These differences, however, tend to decrease with infusions and teas these two closer together. Tea Hulankun of caution throughout the tasting advance when the intensity and strength.
A advantage Zhaiguoting tea has more roundness, but its homologous Hulankun up better in the nose, has more size and propensity to spread. It also has more bitterness and astringency of the tea Zhaiguoting, and is more typical old tree.
See another example of puerh (Pu Er tea) gross product in 2012 Hulankun. It is this time a tea mountain Mang Fei, Zhaiguoting land that has not produced in 2012.
Chargement du thé...But there's also some very good things in fermented teas that proposed Hulankun. See for example the case of two bulk single grade, first grade 9 (large leaves) of 2011, and the second grade 5 (middle leaves) 2012.
Chargement du thé... Chargement du thé...Which tea between the final productions and those of Zhaiguoting Hulankun
Several things can be factored into the choice of teas produced by Zhaiguoting or its Ex-woman, Hulankun, including who is responsible and what plant they are truly out which of course is important in the choice of a tea or a producer.
However, if we ignore that and it does not rely only qualitative dimensions and gustatory qualities we note, for teas that are comparable to 2012 (same soil, same season, same type) to the Ming Qian , harvest early spring tea Zhaiguoting is rich, intense and deep, or that there appears to Hulankun back, and although it enjoys high purity is less interesting.
For tea instead of Min Feng produced by Hulankun the cake turns slightly deeper and richer than Zhaiguoting.
Other teas catalog these two different producers too, including the origin of tea and approaches of the fermentation to be compared. We will adopt the final qualities quite similar on all teas, sometimes with more successful in Zhaiguoting cakes, best cakes in sometimes Hulankun.
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